freefron

freefron

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 22 09:53AM -0700

>But, please take it elsewhere
 
When did you buy the place ?
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:07AM

>> some stuff.
 
> ** Wot a stupid fucking troll.
 
>Piss off.
 
slow down there buddy, you might trip a circuit breaker there.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:13AM


> Now this Kill-a-watt thing, it goes against the laws of physics, I can
> see some things but not that. I even told you all about those
> generators, it took me a year to figure out how they work.
 
Why? It's like a $30 device and a pretty darn neat one for that price too.
They seem to have nailed it the first time too. I'm not seeing new
revisions of the device. There's somebody real clever over at P3.
 
 
> So anyway, this power meter thing. There is not much cheating them. in
> the US the way it is set up you can flip your meter upside down and it
> will run backwards. But if they catch you it is a felony.
 
I've seen plenty of meters installed backwards. It doesn't confused the
power company in Chicago at all. They can do the math, and will even leave
it and put the seal back on the collar of the glass too.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 02:50AM

> single point, where the air abruptly transitions from low humidity to
> high humidity at 100? C.Everything else is done by temperature curve
> extrapolation.Crude, but effective.
 
Hmm, sort of shocked there wasn't a "fuzzy logic" spin on all of that in
1988 or whenever that annoying as hell fad came out.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 02:57AM

> clothing and dry skin, enough current to certainly kill someone, yet
> some current limiting and isolation from the mains such that a RCD or
> circuit breaker will not trip to save you.
 
That's a good point too. All the service tech microwave oven deaths in the
US I'm aware of were people getting dead from the capacitor, with the unit
off. apparently those caps are perfectly sized to just stop your heart.
You'd get noticed about who croaked last in the trade bulletin/sales
"newsletters" that got mailed out every few months.
 
No doubt if you were getting electrocuted off a running microwave, the
fuse would never blow. I have a large transformer for what I'm told is an
industrial microwave something device. The transformer doesn't even have
shunts and outputs a full 4kV at a couple kW. It makes for one of the
fiercest jacob's ladders I've thrown together.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:06AM


> Only reason I mention it is because I bought that from a store that only
> sold microwave ovens. Nothing else, just microwave ovens and cookware for
> microwaves. Guess those died out with laserdisc stores.
 
Weird. Microwaves+? I think they rebranded Batteries+ into something
equally weird like batteries and CFL bulbs and +. There was one in a strip
mall on Clyborn by Armitage or someting like that.
 
> beep with "Sensor failure" on the display panel. Then it did a 30 second
> countdown and end.
 
> Even things like a leftover half corned beef sandwich came out good.
 
Not trying to mess with you, but these sound easy enough to take care of
with even random presses of the quick minute button. Going to try an
"intelligent" mode for some frozen vegetables now in fact.
 
> vintage dishwasher that went out a couple years ago was fetching $150 and
> up, used. Being I replaced the whole thing with a brand new one for a little
> over $300 (and no interest for 12 months), whats the point.
 
Check the prices for the "computer board" for the new washer. Probably
$243 if you get a good price.
 
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 22 12:28PM -0700

On Friday, December 2, 2011 at 5:26:36 AM UTC-8, Windmill wrote:
 
> If I can't find an explanation of the flash code, I'll try the rapping
> technique.
 
If it's not spinning, you want to rap it on a corner so that the drive is
twisted in the circumferential sense, relative to the platters.. The
most productive such rap is done a half-second after applying power
(it's useful to have a switchable power supply for this).
 
Once you get it up and spinning, there'sa good prospect for it
to STAY spinning as long as you don't remove power,and
fair-to-middling chance of it starting again (the motor
is likely to care exactly in what pole-position phase it stops).
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 21 03:06PM -0700

Cydrome Leader wrote:
 
------------------
 
> > ** That must seem like a very clever Q to you.
 
> >But I am not biting.
 
> Just sit back and take some notes then.
 
 
** LOL
 
> It sounds like you're forgetting
> some stuff.
 
** Wot a stupid fucking troll.
 
Piss off.
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 21 09:23PM -0700

>** Wot a stupid fucking troll.
 
They are out there buddy. As much aas you may hate me I do not hatree you. In fact your harsh shit and all that reminds me of my family.
 
Speaking of which, my Uncle and cousin gave it a try. He was a tech specialist at Big Blue, my cousin was definitely into it, an fact built his own stereo. So they had no gas, all electric house.
 
They bought these huge ass rectifiers to put on the furnace to try to magnetise the poles in the meter.
 
Now that I think of it, there is no way to know if it worked. They would have to have two meters and see if they read different.
 
Now this Kill-a-watt thing, it goes against the laws of physics, I can see some things but not that. I even told you all about those generators, it took me a year to figure out how they work.
 
Now just a box ? Well in audiophile land there is a box that is supposed to make almost any stereo sound better. Testimonials are enough to be considerable. But I figured it out. They use coils. The first coil takes the load off the amp at high frequencies, that makes it perform better. There is probably a little but of attenuation but it is tolerable I guess.
 
It's not for me, blow your speakers with rock and roll. (that's a song, look it up) I want the most direct connection I can get. On my good speaker I got 12 gu. wire.
 
But the thing is that I understand what this thing does and it is quite novel, but I do not want one.
 
The best amp I got is totaled. I should send a picture, it had been in a fire and flood, the regulator board it broken in like four places. But I got it working and though it is not my most powerful amp it sounds the best. Rated 65 a channel it is built like amps with 200 a channel. Pioneer SX-850. The only things I heard better were Marantz and Kenwood, and very few Kenwoods. I want sound so sharp it cuts like a knife.
 
So anyway, this power meter thing. There is not much cheating them. in the US the way it is set up you can flip your meter upside down and it will run backwards. But if they catch you it is a felony.
 
Electricity is not the cheapest thing in the world, that is why we cook with gas. Electric cooking sucks anyway.
 
So people might think that for an electric stove maybe some inductance. Nope. Sure that will lower the power consumption but power is what make the heat. Less power less heat.
 
The point is nothing is free. Those generators, a million bucks, do you pay that much in electric bills in seven years ?
 
Enough, this tangent is too much...
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 22 05:35AM -0700

You two really deserve each other! But, please take it elsewhere. Otherwise, to paraphrase Beatrice Campbell, you *will* scare the horses.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
stsslr1@ix.netcom.com: Jun 21 11:39PM -0700

Thank you for this conversation and the hints. I have a Quantum drive that had sat for a few years and was giving me the 8+10 flashing.Giving it a tap got it to spin and allowed the BIOS to detect it. (although I think the drive is totallyunreadable now - it had problems before but now will not even boot)
John Crane <john@localhost.net>: Jun 21 04:04PM -0500

On 06/19/2020 02:02 AM, Tom Lake wrote:
> I have an ADM-3A dumb terminal and when I first turn it on the display is squashed and the top line is mangled. After five minutes or so the display looks OK but is a little jumpy. After a few more minutes, the display is rock-solid and stays that way until the next time I turn it on cold. If I turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as I don't let the ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem might be? What to look for?
 
I agree with the others, caps are usually the culprit.
But don't waste time tracking down the individual component - that's for
modern hardware with the occasional failed cap.Old hardware like this
should be completely 're-capped'. That is, replace ALL the caps.Why?
because they degrade over time (especially electrolytics) and after a
few decades almost all of them will be due to fail soon.So just do it
now and get it over with.
 
-John G.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 22 updates in 7 topics

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Jun 21 04:57AM -0700

On 11/9/2019 4:40 AM, Al wrote:
 
>> They also were lopsided with weight balance.
 
> got to be a Pioneer shirley? They made some massive knobs with lights
> that wekt around but usually never in black.
 
Adcom?
 
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Les Cargill <lcargil99@gmail.com>: Jun 21 10:13AM -0500

amdx wrote:
 
>> got to be a Pioneer shirley? They made some massive knobs with lights
>> that wekt around but usually never in black.
 
> Adcom?
 
No, it was Yamaha - the amps had "current mirror" silkscreened on them.
It's the same basic lineas the NS10s came from - NS being "Natural
Sound" and 10 being the diameter of the bass driver in inches.
 
--
Les Cargill
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 20 04:20PM -0700

On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 12:02:29 AM UTC-7, Tom Lake wrote:
> I have an ADM-3A dumb terminal and when I first turn it on the display is squashed and the top line is mangled. After five minutes or so the display looks OK but is a little jumpy. After a few more minutes, the display is rock-solid and stays that way until the next time I turn it on cold.
 
Either some of the video adjustments are temperature-sensitive (not impossible,
but unlikely) or you have a mechanical stress issue; maybe cracked solder joints, maybe
a dirty connector.
 
If you know how to safe the CRT, you can open it up and exercise the connectors,
look at solder joints (especially at heavty wires or connector pins) and maybe tap
with a chopstick at various points DISTANT FROM the anode wire while power is on.
 
If you care about its function, do be gentle with the CRT; those are irreplaceable.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:19AM

> on cold. If I turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as
> I don't let the ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem
> might be? What to look for?
 
The freezy spray comments are just going to waste your money. You are not
having intermittent problems when the unit heats up. Grab a heat gun and
hit the capacitors. If you have a kit of spares, just start to replace
them, or solder tack new ones across the bad ones and see which one fixes
the issue. I used to have an adm-5a, a very similar unit.
 
Here's a full manual, schematics start on page 57
 
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1023524/Lear-Siegler-Adm-3.html
 
It's a great terminal, except for how that damn keyboard feels.
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 20 11:39AM -0500

> Kill-A-Watt?
 
Try and keep up with the adults.
<http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html>
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jun 16 04:46PM +0100

> You responded to a 22 year old post.
 
The OP's jail sentence has probably expired, he might be able to follow
up on the wisdom of his bill dodging investigation?
 
--
Adrian C
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 17 07:03AM

> the voltage coil and the current coil.
 
> Changing the amount of phase shift between them changes the
> speed at which the dial rotates.
 
which is a measure of the actual power being consumed, as designed.
 
You are not going to fool a spinning disc power meter unless you tamper
with it.
 
Power factor correction might lower your power consumption, but this is
not going to be a concern in a house, unless you leave terribly
inefficient things like 1/3rd horepower induction motors running all day
long.
Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jun 17 11:10PM +1000

On 17/06/2020 19:56, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> **Yep.
 
>> Power factor correction might lower your power consumption,
 
> ** Oops, no it don't.
 
It could lower the wasted power in the resistance of the cable between
the meter and the reactive load. This is unlikely to be significant
unless you have a very very long cable from the meter to the reactive
load. (It will also lower the wasted power in the cables before the
meter but since you don't pay for that, there is no financial incentive
for the consumer to fix it.)
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:10AM


>> Can you explain I^2 R for me ?
 
> ** That must seem like a very clever Q to you.
 
>But I am not biting.
 
Just sit back and take some notes then. It sounds like you're forgetting
some stuff.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 17 05:31AM

> the game is up!Especially if there really isnt much in the filter area
> and I can move the impeller between quadrants, indicating that no
> BLOCKAGE is stopping the impeller from moving.
 
I admit to not fixing dish washers. I do deal with other machinery with
similar sized centrifugal pumps. Blockage seems to be the #1 problem. It
doesn't really take much to stop a small pump either. All it takes is a
piece of cellophane or tape to really mess things up. Complete blockage
isn't needed. I've fished out junk with wires and it's not uncommonon to
have to completely disassemble the wet side of even primo ceramic shaft,
magnetic drive Iwaki pumps to fish out trash in system.
 
The motor spinning at all is a good sign though. Seized motors burn out
real fast, and a burned out motor doesn't usually buzz or do anything.
 
Can you remove the pump and check the entire path the water takes?
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:05AM

> from the fresh water system to the waste-water system? And if you are on
> municipal water and municipal sewer, you are paying handsomely for that
> privilege.
 
Nope. water here is really cheap. They don't even bother to meter it on
most buildings. It's an all you can eat buffet. It's good water too, by
the away.
 
> I expect that you still use high-phosphate detergent as well. It *does*
> get things nice and clean, takes lots of water to do it, but nice and
> clean!
 
I add TSP to all loads of wash.
 
> (Not to mention algae blooms.
> https://www.greatlakesnow.org/algal-blooms/)
 
plants are good, right?
 
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:06AM

>> Peter Wieck
>> Melrose Park, PA
 
> Actually if you use lots of water you need hardly any soap.Perhaps none.
 
Bingo. Less soap residue on your clothes too.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 20 09:53AM -0700

No lock is any better than the frame it is in. Nor do most thieves come at night.
 
Out on the Main Line (look it up!) there was a group that worked out of a large box-truck. They would pull up into a driveway (no sidewalks out there), put a large sign in the yard: House And Yard Clean-Outs, Fast Personal Service
 
Then, do just that.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Jun 20 06:28PM +0100

> Jeff Layman:
 
> You serious?
 
It's a source of the info the OP wanted.
 
> paper folded over and stapled double??
 
> Instructions should always be FREE.They're included in the cost of the product,
> FFS..
 
To quote the OP: "If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad
to pay for it to be copied"
 
If nobody has a copy, or they are not willing to photocopy it, and the
OP really wants the info, then somebody has the market cornered if
/they/ have a copy. How do you think all these websites selling this
info survive?
 
--
 
Jeff
bje@ripco.com: Jun 15 10:26AM

> made in Singapore, but I do have the Sanyo advert in UK in which it looks
> like a salesman selected it for me and I actually purchased it in the
> United Arab Emirates.
 
What exactly is a "Hi Fi System"?
 
Is this a stereo receiver for the home or some kind of ghetto boombox?
 
If it's the latter, I'd give up now.
 
Most of those things from the 80's and early 90's were probably built from
boards/modules cranked out by chinese or korean white box companies and just
assembled by companies like Sanyo, if they had anything to do with it in the
first place.
 
Plus what is so complicated with it you need the user manual?
 
On/off, selector knob or switch for the input, after that, volume and tone
to taste. What else do you need to know?
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Jun 15 04:13PM +0100

On 14/06/20 17:56, georgewbell wrote:
 
> At this time I was often in all three places so anything is possible.
 
> Does anyone know when Sanyo was taken over and by whom.If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad to pay for it to be copiedIt ended up in a container. That is where I have recently found it and I do not think it was ever used, it looks brand new. It was a fairly popular item.
 
> Any ideas?Thanks George.
 
Both the operating guide and service manual are listed on this page at
£7.49 each:
<http://mauritron.com/sanyo.html>
 
--
 
Jeff
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Jun 14 02:03PM -0700

On 6/14/2020 9:56 AM, georgewbell wrote:
 
> At this time I was often in all three places so anything is possible.
 
> Does anyone know when Sanyo was taken over and by whom.If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad to pay for it to be copiedIt ended up in a container. That is where I have recently found it and I do not think it was ever used, it looks brand new. It was a fairly popular item.
 
> Any ideas?Thanks George.
 
Did you try this site?
https://www.sanyo-av.com/us/support/download.php
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jun 15 10:05AM +0100

On 15/06/2020 09:30, Cydrome Leader wrote:
 
 
> What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic
> transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?
 
The Inverter model reliably makes a louder sound on expiry?
 
I'd bet the fancy Inverter design is to get the price down, cost of
copper and weight etc. The chief reason for a SMPS.
 
 
--
Adrian C
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 15 08:30AM


> I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic
transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jun 17 11:57AM +1000

On 15/6/20 6:30 pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
>> Melrose Park, PA
 
> What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic
> transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?
 
We have a National (Panasonic) microwave from 1981, still working a
treat. I know of others like it. It's pretty hard to compare MTBF when
you have zero F.
bje@ripco.com: Jun 17 11:34AM


> Lol, I've wondered about the "sensor" in these things. I know can't be
> related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
> speak or a weirdly translated word.
 
I don't think the "sensor" is a gimmick.
 
From what I ran across somewhere, it's like a humidity or moisture
measurement and really did/does work. I just had a 16~17 year old GE
over-the-range type that went out that used sensor cooking and now using a
$99 counter top model (1250W Magic Chef) that doesn't, I miss it.
 
I would of replaced the GE with a current model but it's a 2 man job and
with ye old pandemic, I figured the $99 special will suffice for now until
an assistant is found. What's odd with the break down is the keypad doesn't
work and it's not the keypad or ribbon cable.
 
About a month before I noticed the 3-6-9 buttons wouldn't do anything but
all the others were fine. Then one early morning, ComEd (local power
company) cut the power for about 10 minutes which reset the clock back to
the blinking 12 (actually I think it scrolls "Press clock to set time") and
that was that. No more workie. It does boot, plug it in, you get the beep
and even the "GE brings great things to life" scrolls on the display.
 
Everywhere I checked for parts (figured a new/used control panel) ended up
the same "Not in stock - No Longer Available".
 
Disappointing.
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jun 16 04:19PM

I was looking through an old copy of Seely's book. My favorite tube
(on the basis of clever design) was the Phantastron. Really slick.
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